|DIY Synthesizer Cabinet|
With about $40 of parts from a hardware store (HomeDepot or Lowes), and an hour or two of pure construction hell, you can have a decent synthesizer cabinet for your Synthesizers.com system for a fraction of the cost of a pre-built one. Sure, it won't be a furniture-quality beauty made from solid walnut, but it will certainly allow your Synthesizer craving to move forward.
It's best to use an entire uncut shelf for the top and bottom so the ends will look good.
Modules are multiples of 2-1/8" wide, so,
The third shelf will be cut into two 9" sides so it can be short (24").
Trim Stock for Rails
Handles, feet, back panels, nails, paint, etc.
If you want to put a wooden panel on the back of your cabinet, pick a 1/4" material such as paneling, very thin plywood, or hardboard. Often these are sold in smaller precut pieces (24"x48") by the store so you don't have to buy a whole sheet. You can even use perforated hardboard to improve the cabinet's air flow. A rear panel will make the cabinet much more stable but it's not necessary.
You'll need some finishing nails (1") or wood screws (#6 x 1") to attach the rails. I'm not even going to list that here because most people have a garage full of stuff like that.
If you want the rails to be black, pick up a cheap can of flat black spray paint. You'll have 3/4 of the can left over when done.
First, you can experiment with simply nailing or screwing the sides together instead of using L-brackets. Predrilling holes and long coarse-thread screws is the key to getting this to work.
The 1/2" trim stock used for the rails could be cut in half by not having rear mounting rails. Also, most cabinet shops throw away tons of this type of drop all the time so you can probably pick some up for nothing.
Instead of feet, you can simply pour a blob of hot glue on each corner. It works!
Instead of shelves, locate some excess material from a cabinet shop or a new-home building site. Even 3/4" plywood could be used and a dab of paint would make it look perty too.
Cutting the Sides
It is possible to do this by hand but use a square to make a cutting line and watch carefully as you cut. It's best to use a mitre saw or radial arm saw if you have one or can borrow one.
When done, you should have 2 perfect sides that are exactly 9" tall.
Attaching the Sides
First thing to check for is the screw length. If the screws are longer than the thickness of the shelf material then you'll need to use shorter screws - see above. Start by attaching a side to the bottom. Place the L-Bracket 1-1/4" from the edge. Make sure the side is flush with the edges of the bottom. Install the screws in the exact center of the L-bracket holes - an electric screwdriver works great. It won't be necessary to pre-drill the holes unless you'll be installing the screws by hand.
Cutting the Rails
Installing the Rails
Nailing the rails can be tricky. Pre-install the nails at slight angles so you can hit them from outside the cabinet with a hammer. If using screws, you'll have to pre-drill the rails to prevent them from splitting. A brad nailer makes this job really easy.
Mount 2 rails on each side of the cabinet.
The rails in the back can be used to mount power modules, or to mount the optional rear panel.
Mounting the Power Supply
The power supply should be mounted so that it allows as much room as possible for modules. Most Synthesizers.com modules only protrude 2.5" behind the panel. Use steel L-brackets. It might be necessary to use a stubby screw driver, a right-angle drill head, or take the top panel off to access the screws. The DC cable harness can be attached to the power supply using a plastic tyrap.
Attach a power cable to each module and secure it using 6 x 1/2" wood screws.
WOW Roger - this is just amazing!!!
Putting up this detailed information with such high quality is superb.
Coming from a manufacturer that also sells cabinet is beyond praise.
You are really one-of-a-kind.
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